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Meat, fish and dairy alternatives are in their wild west phase of discovery and invention

Heather Mills stood up on Friday morning at the Design Centre in Islington, before a modest but engaged audience, to give the keynote speech at the Plant-Based World Expo, the first exhibition of meat, fish and dairy alternatives in Europe. “I’ve got thousands of friends that are vegetarians,” she says, “but they just can’t get it over the line because of cheese.”

Of the many things you may not know about Mills, if all you knew was that she was once married to Paul McCartney, the cheese made by V-Bites, the company she founded, is maybe the most surprising. “Look at the way it pulls into a string,” says Joe Hill as he brandishes a slice of Hawaiian pizza, featuring meat-free bacon lardons from This Isn’t Bacon. Hill runs One Planet Pizza, a family business in Norwich,…

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