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Fungi of all shapes, sizes and varieties are flying off the shelves as a substitute for meat

In Ormskirk, Lancashire, John Dorrian is busy checking the growth of the nine tonnes of shiitake mushrooms and six tonnes of oyster mushrooms he grows each week in 26 separate rooms. While this might sound like a huge haul of fungi, it’s nothing compared to what Dorrian has planned for his business, Smithy Mushrooms, in the months ahead. “We’ve been growing oyster mushrooms here for more than 25 years but have never had demand like we’re seeing now,” he says.

Sales of little-known, exotic mushrooms have soared as a result of the explosion of the plant-based food revolution, with UK growers seeking new ways to keep up with all-year-round demand that now extends well beyond “veganuary”.

Related: Veganuary is huge. But is it really as simple as animal foods bad, plant foods good? | Joanna…

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