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Plant-based alternatives may still be a work in progress but our overexploited oceans, and the fish in them, may force our hand

My friend Henry walked into my kitchen and eyed the can of vegan “skallops” on the counter. My goal for the week was to try as many vegan seafood items as possible. I wanted to know if I could learn to love them, and if they could replace seafood the way Beyond Meat has replaced burgers in my house.

“You’re not really going to eat those, are you?” he said while raising an eyebrow. The skallops looked pale and gelatinous.

Related: Fishy business: should we all be seagans?

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