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Defo dabo is the traditional fennel and orange bread, neither too sweet nor too savoury, to share with friends and family at this time of year

My good friend Meron is a part-time vegan. Like most Ethiopian Orthodox Christians, she fasts on a vegan diet twice a week all year round, and for 55 days consecutively in the run-up to Easter. When the Easter feast arrives, she bakes this festive defo dabo, a fennel and orange bread to be shared with friends and family. Last Easter, after some pestering, she shared the recipe with me, and I’ve been making it ever since.

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