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Vegan food is so much more than fake meat. A bar on terms such as ‘steak’ for non-meat products could help us see that

Famously, Jacob Rees-Mogg has never cooked in his life. But do not be surprised if this summer you see him on the news ordering a brace of carrots from a confused greengrocer before spatchcocking an aubergine and provocatively mincing an onion to snub the European parliament – which has announced plans to ban meat-free products from using any terminology commonly associated with meat. No more bean burgers, no more cauliflower steaks, no more seitan ribs.

MEPs will vote on the agricultural committee’s recommendations in May, urged on by the French socialist MEP Éric Andrieu, who insists: “People need to know what they are eating.” Similar laws exist in France and Missouri, and, at first glance, seem reasonable enough.

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